Thursday, May 16, 2013

Europe: Paris II

 Before leaving on my grand adventure, I did a little research. Ok a lot of research. I knew the places I wanted to try I prioritized them, and categorized them, and mapped them out. Fortunately we were able to go to almost all of the places on my list. Angelina's was one of them. I read stories of hot chocolate so thick you practically have to chew it, descriptions of treats with names I couldn't pronounce, tales of tea time that made me want to cry. It all sounded so beautiful. So French. We had to go. And so we did. For tea one afternoon.

The restaurant and patisserie are beautiful to say the least. Colorful treats lie in straight lines underneath glass counter tops. Gold leafing outlines crown molding and light fixtures. It's all so elaborate.  

We got the classic hot chocolate served with cream, and a kettle of mint tea infused with lime. We also got a treat. I don't know what it was, exactly but I can tell you that it was wonderful. And caramelly. And creamy. And yummy.

After our tea time we walked through the tuileries gardens on our way to the Louver. And I was again reminded that Spring time in Paris can't be beat.

We got to the Louver and I became immediately overwhelmed, and we hadn't even gotten inside yet. But the huge stone buildings housing thousand pieces of art standing before me were slightly intimidating. Maya told me she read somewhere that if you spend 30 seconds on every piece of art in the louver it will take you 100 days to see everything, or something like that. It was crazy huge.

We mapped out our course, and planned what we wanted to see. I was most excited to see the Napoleon apartments. They were over the top. It doesn't get much fancier than red velvet walls and crystal chandeliers.
 



After the Louver we decided to go grab dinner at what ended up being my favorite restaurant of the trip.  La Fontaine de Mars, was nothing fancy. This sweet unassuming restaurant was on the corner of a quiet street in 6th arrondissement near our hotel. The owner a middle age French woman was hurrying around the restaurant chatting with diners, and seating new guests. Wait staff was friendly and welcoming. A little french girl there with her mom, was wandering around the dining room passing out dessert menus. The restaurant itself was charming and traditional. We sat near the busy kitchen and watched plate after plate of scrumptious looking food go out to hungry diners. It was all lovely, but the best of course was the food. It was spectacular.

To start rustic french bread was brought to our table with a ramekin filled with sweet french butter. Our entrees came quickly, I got a chicken dish with rice and mushrooms and we finished our meal with creme brulee. It was perfection.

 The next morning we got up and visited some of the coolest thrift stores I've ever been to. I found some treasures, mostly vintage scarfs. Then the afternoon was filled with eating. And walking. And then more eating. Sheer gluttony. But we were in Paris so...I feel like it's ok.







After shopping we found a croquet monsieur to munch on. Yummy french country bread was topped with ham and Swiss and Gruyere cheese, then it was melted under a broiler. 
 
 We visited the famed E. Dehillerin, the biggest cooking supply store in Paris, famous for their assortment of copper pots and pans. It was amazing, a store filled with all kinds of cooking tools, some familiar, some that I'd never even seen in my life and in all sizes and shapes. Basically I wanted everything.

After cooking supply shopping we went to Au Pied Le Cochon and ordered their famous french onion soup. A thick layer of cheese floats on top of bread and rich, beefy, oniony soup.

Heaven in a bowl.

Later we went to a restaurant called Chartier. It was founded in 1896 and has only had four owners since opening. The dining room was huge and has been conserved to look the same today as it did so many years ago. The food was cheap and remains that way because the restaurant was originally started to serve poor working men. We ordered two poulet and frits, and continued to fill our bellies.

After our chicken dinner we walked to A La Mere De Famille it is the oldest sweet shop in Paris. Founded in 1761! We stocked up on French caramels and died when we tasted them. Holy. Crap. Best caramels ever. I guess that makes sense if you've been in business since the 1700's.
To finish our afternoon we walked to the Paris opera house. The building that inspired the story of the Phantom of the Opera. It was cool. Another childhood dream, crossed off the list.
 
So here's something awesome: we found the BEST macarons in Paris. Laduree on Champs Elysee was a beautiful patisserie, filled with beautiful treats. We struggled to pick macaron flavors and then couldn't resist other tasty looking goodies. 
I got a cream and strawberry filled, coconut topped Paris breast. And Maya got a raspberry and rose giant macaron. We were pretty happy.

We boxed up our treats and took a walk to the Arc Du Triumph. We found two seats with a killer view and watched the sun set as we munched on our treats. And can I just say HOLY. YUM?! They were so good. And were gone in 30 seconds. flat. Not kidding.

After we were througly buzzed with sugar we wandered back to our hotel after yet another perfect day in Paris.
 Only a couple more Paris posts, bear with me. Can you tell I loved it?
Haha

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Europe trip: Paris I

We took the high speed train to Paris. Sort of. We bought our train tickets a little late and were unable to get a direct train from Amsterdam to Paris. Unfortunately this meant that we had to transfer trains three times. It didn't seem like a big deal at first and then I found myself running late three times sprinting down platforms dragging my 50 pound suitcase up and down staircases, barely making several of the trains. It wasn't until then that I realized that three transfers were in fact, a big deal. I can only imagine what I must have looked like as the train doors began to close on me and my rolling suitcase. I leaped into the train cabin, sweating and breathing heavily. Men pried my big bag from the closing doors.  Tickets and paperwork were waded in my hands, headphones hanging from my ears, and my big purse was filled with ritz bits and girl scout cookies. It was a sight I'm sure. The crazy American girl with too much crap and poor time management skills.

Once we finally arrived in Paris we metro-ed to our hotel. Which can I just say: it was a two minute walk to the Eiffel tower. We were right there. In its shadow. Amazing. The hotel we stayed in was so charming and small. It was in an old row house build to house tower workers while they constructed the tower. The history that oozes from every square inch of this town is amazing.


After checking into the hotel and dropping our bags we hit the street and picked up a small Parisian picnic and made our way to the foot of the Eiffel tower.
 At ground level the tower is hidden by surrounding buildings. It's not uncommon to practically be standing on the Eiffel tower before you see it. This was the case for me. We walked down a street and then another and I still hadn't seen it yet. Then all of a sudden we made another slight turn on the street and BOOM. There it was. More majestic and beautiful than I could have ever imagined.

 Of course you see pictures of this great landmark your whole life and you read about it in books and study it in school and you gain this appreciation for what it is and where it is. But for me there was nothing that I could have seen on a computer screen or read in a book that would compare to seeing the Eiffel tower in real life. It was sort of surreal. No it was very surreal. And really the only word that I could use to describe it is magical. Seeing the Eiffel tower for the first time will be a moment in my life that I will never forget.

We wandered around the tower for a while after we ate and just took it all in. Paris. I was in Paris. Finally. This is real life. *pinch* This is happening. *pinch* THAT'S THE EIFFEL TOWER. *pinch* *pinch* *pinch*
 
 After our stroll we found the sweetest little pink patisserie and ordered a chocolate eclair, a tiny cheesecake and a chocolate tart. We had a dessert picnic by the river seine.

It was the perfect way to spend my first afternoon in Paris.


The next morning we took a trip to Versailles. The building and the grounds made for some great picture taking opportunities. I guess that should explain the long stream of pictures you're about to scroll through.
I couldn't believe how over the top and extravagant the palace was. The gold, the vastness, the windows, the sculptures, the lake, the hedges. It was all just over the top. And stunning.
 
 

 In between the picture taking and strolling around in the hedges I was able to find myself a crepe. Nutella. Creme Chantilly. Basically heaven.
 
 
 

Versailles was the perfect back drop for our classic jumping pictures. The grounds were stunning and it was a beautiful afternoon. 
 

Next up: our trip to the Louvre and a lovely French meal.